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A Connoisseur's Journey: Luxury Watches and Vintage Cars at Audrain Concours

André Leon Talley

André Leon Talley

Former creative director and editor-at-large at Vogue, a towering and influential figure in fashion journalism.

This past weekend, my A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down timepiece accompanied me to the Audrain Concours d'Elegance in Newport, Rhode Island. Much like other high-end automotive exhibitions, this event also serves as a prime location for observing exquisite watches. As a sponsor, Lange even had master engraver Robert Arnold present to demonstrate his intricate artistry. Amidst a spectacular display of multimillion-dollar supercars, grand cliffside estates, and an abundance of pastel colors reminiscent of Easter Sunday, I presented my 1815 for what could be described as a horological dissection by Arnold. This experience highlighted a key element that distinguishes Lange from almost every other watchmaker: the unique balance cock.

A pivotal feature in every A. Lange & Söhne watch is its balance cock, a minute bridge approximately the size of a watermelon seed. Its function is to secure the regulating organ, which is the watch's miniature pulsating core (comprising the balance wheel and hairspring), responsible for governing the movement's pace and ensuring its consistent tick-tock. The balance cock holds particular significance at Lange because each one is meticulously hand-engraved with an elaborate floral pattern by a skilled artisan at their manufacturing facility in Glashütte, Germany. Due to the individual artistic styles of each engraver, every piece is as distinctive as a fingerprint, so much so that Lange's watchmakers can identify the engraver by examining the pattern under a loupe.

During the event, Arnold examined my 1815 Up/Down, produced around the year 2000, under his microscope, pointing out the distinct marks of Helmut Wagner, a Master Engraver and former head of Lange’s engraving department. This revelation deepened my appreciation for my watch, not just because Wagner is a legendary figure at Lange, but because it allowed me to envision the master craftsman meticulously working on this delicate German silver component specifically for my wrist. The ability to identify the individual artisan behind a movement’s craftsmanship is a rare feat for most watch brands, underscoring the exceptional quality of Lange & Söhne. Since the introduction of the Datograph in 1999, Lange has cemented its reputation as a specialist in chronographs, making it an ideal partner for the Audrain Concours. Enthusiasts of finely crafted mechanical objects, especially drivers who appreciate timing functions, were abundant, showcasing numerous impressive timepieces alongside the procession of classic cars throughout the Audrain Newport Concours and Motor Week.

The weekend culminated in the Concours d’Elegance held at Fort Adams, a historic United States Army post dating back to 1799. A Concours d’Elegance is a prestigious competition where rare, vintage, and classic cars are judged on their beauty, historical accuracy, and restoration. These events are hosted globally each year, rotating through luxurious locations such as Pebble Beach, Lake Como, and Newport. This year's Audrain Best of Show award went to a 1938 Delahaye 165 Cabriolet, but the competition ultimately serves as a gathering for enthusiasts to share their passion for exceptional mechanical creations.

Beyond the competition, the Audrain Concours d'Elegance offers a diverse showcase of automotive and horological excellence. From the elegant Porsches with their unmistakable "frog-eye" headlights to the iconic 1964 Aston Martin DB5, renowned for its role in James Bond films, the event celebrates a rich history of design and engineering. The inclusion of Joe Biden's 1967 Corvette adds a unique touch, highlighting personal connections to these magnificent machines. The event also provides a platform for both established brands like Rolex, Omega, and Lange & Söhne, and more accessible options like the Casio F-91W, to be appreciated by a wide array of attendees. This blend of classic luxury and individual expression fosters a vibrant community of connoisseurs, demonstrating that the pursuit of beauty and precision transcends price tags. The shared passion for these intricate creations underscores a collective appreciation for dedication, innovation, and the enduring legacy of craftsmanship.